A Visit to Chūson-ji temple at Hiraizumi

Entrance to the Chuson-ji Temple.

A couple of weeks ago I got the opportunity to visit Hiraizumi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Tohoku region of Japan. It's a town located in Iwate prefecture and is famous for its temples, gardens and archaeological sites that represent the Buddhist Pure Land. I didn't get time to explore Hiraizumi (I am sure I will go there again) but I did visit Chūson-ji temple located in Hiraizumi which is the head temple of the Tendai sect of Buddhism in Tohoku (northeastern Japan). 

Situated on the top of a hill named Kanzan, Chūson-ji was founded in 850 by a priest called Ennin (Jikaku Dashi). However, the large scale construction of the impressive temple complex was done by Kiyohira, the founder of the Oshu Fujiwara clan, in the 12th century. To some extent Kiyohira's story is similar to that of Ashoka the Great, the Indian emperor of the Maurya dynasty who gave up war after the conquest of Kalinga and started practicing Buddhism. 

Kiyohira lost his wife and children at the hands of his own half-brother in an internal conflict to gain control of the powerful Kiyohara clan. This traumatic experience motivated him to create a peaceful society following the teachings of Buddha in Michinoku which was considered the remotest area of Tohoku region. He resolved to bring peace to the region and built Chūson-ji temple to comfort the souls of all those who died, whether friend or enemy, in bloody battles. Chūson-ji was the result of his dream to  establish a Buddhist Pure Land on earth which will be free from violence and strife. However, all structures at the Chuson-ji except Konjikidō hall were destroyed by fire in the 14th century. The temple was rebuilt by Date clan in 17th century. Date clan planted hundreds of trees that enhanced the beauty of the temple complex.  

Japan's stunning natural beauty is capable of attracting many tourists but strangely most of the foreigners prefer to visit the heavily industrialized areas around Tokyo and Osaka. Mountains, green spaces, rivers, lakes, sea, trees, beautiful autumn colours and cherry blossoms are some of the nature's immense blessings bestowed upon Japanese people. Over 70 per cent of Japan is covered by hills, mountains and forests whereas residential and industrial areas cover only 10 per cent of its land making it one of the most densely populated countries in the world. If you visit Tokyo you will get to know what it means. 

Most of the places I visited here are close to nature and needless to say Chūson-ji was one of them. A long walk through the spectacular tree-lined path here will leave you in awe for sure. These breathtaking tree tunnels, while leading you to the historic structures at the Chūson-ji, will make you realize that sometimes the journey is more beautiful than the destination. Actually, it's true for most of the Buddhist shrines in Japan. Take Yamadera temple for example. To reach this mountain temple you will have to climb over a thousand steep stone stairs through the deep forest that makes the steep climb to the top worth it. 

I wanted to write more about Chūson-ji but as they say "a picture is worth a thousand words", so I will leave these beautiful pictures to speak for themselves. 

Tree-lined path at the Chūson-ji complex.  These trees were planted 300-400 years ago by the Date clan of Sendai.
Photo credit: Anubha Shukla

Entrance to the Konjikidō hall (on the right), completed in 1124, is the only 12th century structure to survive in its original form at Chūson-ji.  This hall is made up of gold and stands inside another building for protection. Inside the hall you will find many golden statues. Indeed, it's a breathtaking sight.  Since taking photographs inside the hall is prohibited I could not click the picture of the golden hall. 

While walking through the tree-lined path you find these statues.

It's a custom to wash your hands by pouring water from bamboo ladles before entering a shrine

It's an outdoor Noh stage. During the spring and autumn the monks and priests of the Chūson-ji perform 'Noh' here. Originated in the 14th century, 'Noh' is a form of theater that involves music, dance and drama.

View of Hiraizumi town from the Chūson-ji

Devotees praying at one of the sacred structures.

Mini shrine-like structures. each structure is dedicated to a Chinese zodiac sign

This is Hondō Main Hall. Chūson-ji is the name of both the complex and this principal temple hall where many services and rituals are conducted. At a given time atleast 20-23 monks work here.

How to get there

Take the JR Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Ichinoseki Station (via Sendai) that takes 2-2.5 hours and then the JR Tohoku Main Line from Ichinoseki to Hiraizumi (8 minutes). 

The Hiraizumi "Run Run" Loop Bus connects Hiraizumi Station to  Chūson-ji. It will take around 10 minutes and cost around 150 yen. So, if you are a good walker you can cover that distance on foot. Also, rental bicycles are available at Hiraizumi station.